May 23, 2013
After Lacoste
Game... set... and all matched to perfection: today's tennis wear, on and off the court
By TINA GAUDOIN
SHOW ME A WOMAN whose head hasn't been turned by a tanned, toned calf and a neat-fitting pair of white shorts, and I will show her the way to the opticians. There really is nothing sexier than a fit man in tennis whites.
Tennis kit, like a tan, has the ability to make almost anyone look new and improved. (Oddly enough I don't feel the same about cricket whites, but perhaps that's because cricketers don't wear shorts.) But let us not forget its primary purpose: to enable one to move comfortably about the court at speed.
It was Frenchman Rene Lacoste --- one of the top players of the 1920s, nicknamed the Crocodile --- who reinvented traditional tennis whites when he started wearing open-necked, short-sleeved cotton shirts on court. His trademark polo shirt, bearing Lacoste's crocodile logo, is still the basis for modern men's tennis wear --- and a must-have among the young French BCBG set. The company, founded as La Societe Chemise Lacoste in 1933, celebrates its 80th anniversary this year --- though the jury is still out on whether that crocodile was actually an alligator.
Other looks have since walked off the courts and into the popular sportswear lexicon. The V-neck, cable-knit sweaters worn by American Bill Tilden in the '20s became --- and remain --- a preppy staple. And the fitted polo shirt with twin laurel logo designed by Fred Perry --- the British working-class hero who became so disillusioned by the All England Club's stuffy conservatism that he moved to America --- was adopted in the 1960s by fashionably rebellious Mods and, more recently, Oasis wannabes. American Stan Smith's green-and-white shoes might no longer be worn on the court, but "Stannies" are still the trainer of choice for many fashionistas.
But today, a sport that once prided itself on conservative turnout and color blocking has become an excuse for an on-court fashion extravaganza --- a logo fest that could give Coke and Pepsi a run for their money.
I blame Bjorn Borg for polluting the tennis-wear gene pool. If only the player many believe still to be the greatest of all time had been possessed of a dress sense to match his peerless tennis, then we might not be in the garish, vulgar sartorial straits we find ourselves in today. Mr. Borg was the epitome of a colorblind male on the court, having no qualms about clashing his Fila stripes, checks and colorways. Unlike Andre Agassi --- another walking wardrobe disaster --- Mr. Borg's fashion faux pas seemed unintentional. What he wore was almost incidental, or some might say accidental, to the game itself.
Post-Borg, it was too late to shut the floodgates on the '80s "logo-itis" and personality tennis. Sponsors vied to attach themselves to successful names around and from whom they could spin successful commercial product lines. The more standout and unique the player, the better.
I'm quite sure that Nike didn't encourage Mr. Agassi's early headbanger locks, but I'm pretty sure they didn't mind, either. Nike was in the business of attracting attention to its brand on court in the form of neon shorts and shoes (witness Mr. Agassi's 1990 advertising spot filmed with the Red Hot Chili Peppers). With his big hair and even bigger outbursts, John McEnroe had already paved the way for Mr. Agassi, sporting red headbands, Sergio Tacchini kit and Nike SB Challenge Court shoes.
If personality, logo tennis characterized the '80s, then Pete Sampras returned the game and its attire to something of its quieter, more modest former glory. Sergio Tacchini, the brand behind Mr. Sampras, reflected the American's play and personality with calmer branding and colors.
The company upped its game --- and its colorway --- through its association with tennis's great comedian and world's No. 1, Novak Djokovic. But the sponsorship came unstuck in May 2012 and Mr. Djokovic is now appearing in an advertising campaign for his new sponsors, Uniqlo. The Japanese retailer, which has created a new underwear line and fabric named AIRism in his honor, also launched a new collection this week based on the Serb's last four Grand Slam tournament looks.
"A sport that once prided itself on conservative turnout and color blocking has become an excuse for an on-court fashion extravaganza."
Meanwhile, Nike, which first signed a sponsorship deal with Rafael Nadal in 2006, continues to create and promote a range of clothing linked to the No. 4 player that might look more at home in Ibiza than on grass. To reflect the Spaniard's uniquely muscular tennis style, the brand offers acid-bright sleeveless T-shirts, baggy shorts, oversized sweatbands and wide, bandana-style headbands.
By contrast, Nike's wardrobe for No. 3 Roger Federer is masterful in its understated representation of the sartorially aware, steady Swiss. I'm not saying I always like Mr. Federer's smug walk-on jerseys or his rather self-conscious sports jackets, but Nike gets a big tick for illustrating that one can still appear well attired and respectful, whether on center court or at the local tennis club.
When in doubt, regular mortals should keep it simple by wearing loose-fitting, but not baggy, shorts and polos (collars, please), and as close to white as possible --- though flashes of color are permissible on shirts, shorts or socks.
Unless you are a county player or above, no Nadal-type kerchiefs. No baseball caps unless your name is Andy Murray and absolutely no black socks. Ever. The only reason for wearing sweatbands is if the temperature rises above 20 degrees Celsius. On that basis, if you live in England, you'd be better off not wasting your money and bringing a dry flannel from home to tuck into your pocket.