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Updated on
5 December 2002
I requested Mr.Kamei who lives in Garapan and has through knowledge of the war, to guide us to the ruins of the war in Saipan. On the way of inquiry, he pointed out the piled up soils which is said buried bodies of Japanese Army and Navy soldiers scattering here and there in gloomy jangle. I feel an inexcusable blunder that we still leave them who sacrificed themselves to the nation wishing deified themselves in Yasukuni Shrine. Sugarking Shunji Matsue was succeeded the plantation of sugarcane and sugar refining industry in Saipan, Tinian and Rota as the president of Nanyo-Kaihatsu Company (Nanko). He engaged in business at Palau and Peleliu, the islands in the southern hemisphere of the earth. Number of employees reached to 50,000 including their family and Nanko was called as "Sea Manchuria Railroad Company". His statue which remains in front of Saipan Katori Shrine of Garapan now, will immortalize the appearance of Japanese who launched out into overseas. Tokuichi kuribayashi, the successor to Matsue who failed in his health, devoted his life to settle the bankrupted Nanko at the end of the war and to give comfort to war dead 8,000 employees and their family. A. Landing
In
the morning One
of the major problems was the gap between the 2nd and 4th
Marine Divisions at Susupe Pt. and on the outward flanks of each division. This
gap, which should have been closed the first day, took three days to close due
to it being larger that originally planned thereby allowing the Japanese to
defend this area in greater strength than expected. Offshore
of the beach, three tanks used at the operation remain exposed their turret on
the surface of water, one of which we can approach walking in the sea. This
block of steel is supposed to be hermetic sealed equipped with air intake and
drive at the bottom of the sea. This site possesses national significance in commemorating the history of the United States of America 1985 National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior The beach around Susupe Pt. is crowded with peoples enjoying marine sports. Motor boats run around calm water surface of the Lagoon. In night, modern hotels emit light around the beach till late at night. The ruins of the fierce battle of landing operation have been almost wiped out. I find a memorial for landing of
Marine Division on the beach. I become unpleasant to read sentences engraved on
the memorial: The memorial of Japanese Army soldiers who fought to obstruct the landing of U.S. Marine is built near by that of Marine. The total numbers of the 316th
Squadron of 14th Japanese Army Infantry Division led by Captain
Susumu Etou was 610, and among them 23 were demobilized after the war, 2 died
before landing of enemy and 585 were killed in the action. Those data are recorded
in “A Series of the War History” written by War History Office, In-service
Training Institute, Japan Defense Agency. This Squadron met with overwhelming
fighting power of landing force of 4th Marine Division for they
arranged around Charan
Kanoa city.
Opinion
is divided on the question whether to fight a decisive battle at the landing
beach or to give them a challenge to protracted war. They couldn’t adopt
protracted tactics because they had a little construction materials and time for
preparation. ■
Sleep in Peace B. Mt.Tapotchau
Climb on to the parking lot through mountain path and reached the top of the mountain on foot, where we find the white statue of Christ in imitating hill of Gorgoda. A lot of Christian lives in Saipan since they were under the rule of Spanish. There is Mount Carmel Cathedral standing majestically on Beach Road. Japanese memorials were lonely standing at the corner of the crossing of the road near the cathedral. There was a sugar manufacturing plant of Nanko in Charan Kanoa. Many of Japanese who were working at the plant died with their family during the war. ■ Memorial of Japanese died during the war Japanese Government ■ Memorial send for the spirits who died for the Pacific War The 360-degrees panoramic view from narrow top of the mountain is wonderful although the weather is cloudy. To the west, landing beach lies in a row on south of Garapan and circular surface of Susupe lake is glimmering by the reflected light of the sun. On the southern edge of the west beach, we overlook Agingan Point where wreckage of Japanese firm fortress is left behind now which can be seen close by from the golf course of Coral Ocean Point Resort Club. On April 1944, when Vice Admiral Nagumo who proceeded to his new post made tour of inspection, he looked at the coastal defense cannon which might be used at the age of Russo-Japanese War and it is said that he enraged so saying ”is this a cannon? We couldn't go to war with it!" Nagumo was a tragic admiral who was the commander of tactical force attacked Pearl Harbor on 8 December 1942 and also the commander of the Battle of the Midway and then died the death of a warrior in Saipan. To the south, we can see the runway of Saipan International Airport and expired Kobler Airfield. Around them ruins of Japanese Military Buildings and hardstands of 73rd Bomb Wing are remained under jungle. Over the Saipan Cannel, Tinian Island lies through thin mist. The skies of the area were much noisy in day and night of B-29s take off and landing during the end of the Pacific War. To the east, the land covered with green forest, steeply dropped to the Pacific Ocean is seems to be thinly populated. Japanese Defense Military supposed that Laolao Bay (Majiciene Bay) would be the top-rated contender for landing point of U.S. Marine, therefore they disposed big troop on Kagman Peninsula. To the north, coastline from west and east are linked with at Sabaneta Point beyond Mt. Marpi (see attached photo) where tragic affairs were happened at the end of Saipan War. 2nd and 4th Marine Corps landed on north and south of Susupe Pt. respectively, were planned to march onward to the north along west and east foot of Mt. Tapotchau. This plan hampered by stubborn resistance of Japanese Defense Force hold a position on Mt. Tapotchau. 27th Army Infantry Division landed on the heels of the Marines, spent much time to clear the enemy defended south of Saipan especially capture of Aslito airfield. Then they ordered to participate in capture of Mt. Tapotchau in cooperation with the Marine Divisions. They were confronted with the persistent resistance of Japanese Defense Forces. Japanese held back attack of 27th Army Infantry Division utilizing rugged natural features covered with jungle. In this battle, as large caliber gun and tank couldn't be used, only direct fire and small assaults could defeat the Japanese soldiers who were hiding in caves, ravines and gullies. 27th Infant Division was late in conducting its attack on Mt. Tapotchau and therefore it slowed the movement of its flanking Marine Divisions, causing them to suffer unnecessary losses. Due to the battle of the Philippine hold at the same time, they couldn't get the excessive support from sea and air. Finally the army divisional commander was relived of his command. Marines captured Mt. Tapotchau drove Japanese away to the north. Although Marine soldiers walked abreast toward north between west and east coast, a little Japanese soldier was discovered by them and this operation resulted in failure. At last Japan challenged Banzai Charge at Tanapaq beach on north-west of Saipan. About four thousands Japanese soldiers made an attack in waves to U.S. Military and then their systematic resistance came to an end. Japanese soldiers and civilians who likes rats in a trap killed themselves imagining homeland to the north of the island. The date of formal surrender of Japanese Military in Saipan was 1 December 1945, the two and half months after the end of the war. Forty seven soldiers lead by Colonel Oba descended from mountain and surrendered to U.S. Military under the order of major general Amaba, the commander of Pagan island defense force. Even then many soldiers continued to resist hiding in caves, mountains etc. of Saipan. It is doubtful that the jungle covering the island is unchanged then and now. U.S. Military sprayed seeds of Tangantangan in the air over devastated sugarcane farm and altered vegetable kingdom of the island. Both Saipan and Tinian covered with jungle of Tangantangan as if they were its proprietor now. It is said that U.S. Military intended to make use of the islands at their will in future forcing inhabitants not to cultivate their land. C. American Memorial Park
There are three Memorials in the center: "Turn on the light" In immediate response to the American Invasion of Saipan on June 15 1944, the Imperial Japanese Fleet raced to the Marianas to bring release to the embattled defenders of Saipan, Tinian and Guam, and to find and destroy the American Fifth Fleet under the command of Vice Admiral Raymond A. Spruance. The fate of the American Forces ashore and the outcome of the battle for the Marianas were in the balance. On June 19 and 20, in decisive naval engagement in the waters to the west of Saipan, The Japanese fleet of carriers, battleships and supporting combat ships was defeated, The epic battle of the Philippine Sea. The last great carrier battle of the Pacific War was over. Japanese Naval air Power was largely destroyed and never recovered. As the Imperial Fleet withdrew toward the inland sea of Japan the American invasion of Saipan continued without threat of further enemy attack from the sea. Order of Vice Admiral Marc A. Mitscher, Commander Task Force 58. Enabling naval aviators, returning from an attack on the Japanese fleet to find their carrier in the dark June 20, 1944.
“Land the Landing Force” On the morning of June 15, 1944, under cover of Air and Naval Bombardment by the United States Fifth Fleet, the Second and Forth Marine Divisions of the V Amphibious Corps landed on the beaches of Saipan in the face of heavy Japanese resistance. The U.S. army 27th Infantry Division came ashore on D day plus two. After 24 days and night of close and deadly ground combat supported by air and naval action, Saipan was declared secure on July 9, 1944, by Lieutenant General Holland M. Smith, USMC. The invasion of Tinian followed. Tinian fell to the Second and Forth Marines on August 2, 1944. Operation Forager in the Northern Marianas was over. The Japanese inner defense perimeter had been penetrated for the first time. Victory and the liberation of Saipan and Tinian came at a heavy price. United States casualties totaled 18,893 of this number 5050 American Soldiers, Sailors and Airman were killed or missing in action. Ordered given at 0452, 15 June 1944 by Vice Admiral Richmond K. Turner, USN Commander, Joint U.S. Expeditionary Forces. D. Katori Shrine
In front of the shrine, following notice is written in both Japanese and English languages. World WarⅠbegun in 1914 and Japanese Warship Katori entered in the Saipan harbor to be transferred supreme power of North Mariana from Germany, the enemy of Allied Forces. I have been imagined that Katori Shrine was named after the Warship Katori, but Japanese peoples had been settled into Saipan under the rule Germany and the shrine was built in 1911. ■ Reconstruction of Saipan Katori Jinja On the way from the shrine, the driver comes for me. By the roadside I find a
memorial written in English. As I ordered him to write down, he followed
light-heartedly. There are two races in Saipan now, Chamorros who are of mixed
breed with Spanish and Carolinas who came from the other islands. This driver is
seems to be Carolinas and I impressed him favorably seeing that he write down in
a good hand as follows: E．Shunji Matsue
Matsue who build his statue during his life came from Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture and entered Dai-Nihon Seito Co. (Nitto Co.) after graduating Tokyo Technical High School (now, Tokyo Technical Collage) and was at Louisiana University, the sole university that has the sugar engineering section in U.S.. On November 1921, Matsue established Nanyo Kohatsu Co. (Nanko) under the support of Nanyo Agency and Toyo Takushoku Co. after abandoned the sugar manufacturing in Formosa. At first, he received immigrants from Okinawa in Saipan. He started to open up of the land constructing factory and building railroad using 3,000 employees. Three years later, he made rapid progress overcoming troubles such as extermination of noxious insects, introduction of new pant breeding. On October 1926, he got the leasehold of all over the Tinian and 1,500 immigrants came from Tohoku and Hokkaido. The sugar industry in Tinian progressed satisfactory on the basis of the experiences in Saipan and the yield of sugar exceeded Saipan after fiscal year 1935. Afterwards, Nanko reached their hands for the islands such as Rota, Palau, Peleliu. At the height of their prosperity in 1942, the total number of the employee and their family were over 50,000 and grew up to gigantic company called “Sea-Manchurian Railroad Company”. Nanko stationed Head Office in Saipan, Sugar Manufacturing Works in Saipan, Tinian and Rota, Branch in New Guinea, Office in Tokyo, Branch Office in Osaka and Shimonoseki. Matsue promoted the plan to purchase New Guinea occupied by the Netherlands in response to the Navy’s March Southward Plan, but he injured his health in 1938 and handed over position of the president to Tokuichi Kuribayashi making himself way for the chairman. At the end of the Pacific War, Nanko ruined with the state losing total 8,000 employees including their family. After the war when U.S. Military planned to destroy the statue of Matsue, It is said that the inhabitant of the island denied to the plan because Matsue is a person who promoted the island to the prosperity. I filled with deep emotion to see that the statue of the self-made man with whom Japanese have to learn, has still been preserved admirably. At the southern corner of Sugar King Park, a small steam engine is placed on display. This engine was brought to the island when Matsue built railway prior to cultivate sugarcane. ■ STEAM ENGINEThis steam-engine was used to haul sugar cane to a Japanese factory before World WarⅡ. Mr. BILL EGER, boatswain mate of the Naval Operating Base Fire Department, set this steam-engine up as a landmark of the Fire Department in 1945. 30 years later, this engine was then completely restored through the effort of Mr. Shiro SHIMODA. F. Managaha Island
In the evening, we joined sunset cruise as before. Watching the declining sun into Philippine Sea, we enjoyed drinking beer, eating beefsteak and hearing music cruising slowly in Tanapag Lagoon to Managaha Island. Newly-married couples were took their seat, ten Japanese couples on the port side and the same number of Koreans on the starboard. I look at both brides insatiably and understood that Japanese women are unattractive because generally they get lean, on the contrary Korean women are fair and plump. Another name of Managaha Island is‘ Warship Island' which was used as the base of seaplane and fortress of Japanese Navy. As this island was best target for gunfire, it was crashed by bombardment from warships at the beginning of the Saipan Invasion. This island is one mile round in circumstance and we can enjoy various marine sports now. There is another island called Warship Island locates in Nagasaki. Go southward west shore of Nomo peninsula, Nagasaki Prefecture, we can see Hashoma, the small island just looks like a warship to the south of Takashima. Dimensions of Hashima are 530 yards in north-east, 180 yards in east-west and there was coal mine more than 1100 yards right under the island spreading for several square miles. Before development, Hashima was tiny rock just projected over the surface of the water and it become greater repeating expansion of bank protection works filling up the surroundings with dregs dug from the coal mine zone which go on expand by the progress of mining technology. The residential quarter for workers was constructed and finally nearly fifty high reinforced concrete buildings stood together in large numbers. Due to the conversion of national energy policy from coal to petroleum in early 1960th, the coral mine industry in Hashima came to an end on January 1974 and the island become uninhabited at all. At the highest of its prosperity, the persons concerned the industry strode about in the neighborhood of Shianbashi, the most flourishing quarter in Nagasaki, wearing rubber boots and in the celebrated cabaret “Ginbasha” located at Doza, they excited dancing Tanko-bushi. Now, steamer ply from Ohato Harbor in Nagasaki bay to Hashima through Iwojima and Takashima stops at Takashima. Temporary, Ship-builders rode up to Shianbashi by car but now is in unstable period mostly depends upon tourists. There is an island called Mitsukejima on the beach of Iida gulf, Kaitsuki Suzu-city Ishikawa Prefecture. This island called as Warship Island for it looks like a large ship which is about to arrive in a port. It looks like wrecked ship also. There is another Warship Island in Takashima-cho Nagasaki Prefecture. A ship of Baltic Fleet of Russia escaped from the Battle of the Japan Sea on May 1901 opened fire on the island fail to see it as a Japanese warship. G. Banzai Charge
On 6 July 1944, the top-level executives of Japanese Military in Saipan, Vice Admiral Nagumo, the Commander in Chief of Central Pacific Area, Lieutenant General Saito, the Army Commander of North Marianas and Major General Igeta, the Chief of Staff of 31th Army committed suicide in caves giving order of final attack to all Japanese troops. On 5 o'clock in the morning of 7 July 1944, a group of about 4,000 soldiers of Army and Navy assembled in secret rushed raising battle cry into the frontal line of 105th Regiment of 27th Army Infantry Division lined-up at Tanapaq, violated and breakthrough their positions. A commander of the Battalion was killed in action and casualties came out one after another. Dozens of Japanese soldier groups rushed to confusing U.S. Military like tidal waves successively. A hundred and tenth U.S. soldiers went back into the sea and escaped swimming out to the reef. Japanese Military broke through the frontal line of 105th Regiment and captured the guns crashing artillery position. Most of soldiers participated in are armed with only grenades and bayonets and about one out of ten soldiers armed with rifle. 27th Army Infantry Division was originally New York National Guard unit and was called into federal service in the World WarⅡ . They experienced the war almost first time in Saipan and took much time to capture the southern side of Mt. Tapotchau and as the result commander of the division was relieved his command. Japanese made determined resistance on next day and at last the war suppressed on 9th day. There were 4,311 abandoned Japanese soldier bodies around Tanapaq. After the battle the crowds of bodies scattered around Tanapaq were buried in the grounds on the spot. Look closely into the forest around there, we can find many artificial grave mounds. It is said that those thickly-wooded mounds are graves of Japanese soldiers preserved almost the same as that time. Their remains are buried under the ground without being gathered. For example, many of them are sleeping under building of a local company. The soldiers immolated themselves on the death their country believing that they will be enshrined in Yasukuni Shrine. Against their will they are exposed to the storm and rain even now. We couldn't teach the spirit to sacrifice ourselves for our country to young fellow after all without conducting memorial service and getting them to eternal sleep. H. Banzai Cliff
On 19 August 1944, more than thousand of our countrymen, men and women of all ages, throw themselves into the water from Banzai Cliff dreaming coming back to the homeland being watched by U.S. Soldiers. It is said that surface of the sea under the cliff filled with numerous floating dead bodies. Now there are several memorials built around the cliff mourning over the death of those peoples. Following is the memorial built by Japanese Government： ■ Loyalty Spirit Memorial Vice Admiral Nagumo ordered to build runway on Banaderu plain. It is said that he planned to house airplanes in the hole drilled under the northern cliff of Mt. Marpi and to take off the airplanes directly from there. But, the runway was occupied by U.S. Military during construction. U.S. Military utilized it temporally and now it returned to the former state pasturing flock of sheep. During the war, there were four airfields constructed in Saipan by Japanese Military, on Banaderu in the Northern end, on Kobler and Aslito in south, and on near Charan Kanoa along the beach for fighter use. After U.S. Military occupied the island, the airfields on Banaderu and Charan Kanoa were abandoned and turned into a pasture and road respectively. U.S. Military constructed new runway for fighters on Kagman Penninsula. Aslito airfield changed the name to Isely airfield and was used for military aircraft. Kobler airfield was used for commercial aircraft. After Military Airbase was closed, Isley airfield was diverted to Saipan International Airport. I. Suicide Cliff
There build a white statue of the Holly Mother or the Goddess of Mercy high up in the sky and the origin of building the statue is written as follows: ■ IN DEDICATION Tokuichi Kuribayashi was once president of Kuribayashi Trading Vessel Co. at Muroran, Hokkaido, assumed the second president of Nanyo Kohatsu Co. (Nanko) following to Matsue, passed under the hard war and winded up the affairs of the insolvent company after the war. On the beach south-east of Mt. Marpi, there is a cave called Grotto where is the typical diving spot and scenic spot of Saipan. We prepare at the parking lot on the hill and go down for about 150ft carrying heavy air-bottle on the back. There is a pool created naturally in which we jump with giant entry posture from top of the rock. We go out to the open sea through opening of the cave under diving. Going down the east shore of the island to south, there is a
small island named Isleta Maigo Fahang (Bird Island) made by limestone in a
small bay. It means the Island where Birds Sleep in Chamorro language and sea
birds build numerous nests at spawning season. During Saipan was under the rule
of Japanese, this island was familiar with Japanese as noted place for enjoying
moon in night. It was said that this spot equals to Katsurahama beach of
Kochi-prefecture for enjoying moon. The island is mysterious because the each
picture of the island is different due to the sunlit conditions.
"Saipan under Burning Sun” describes details of Aslito Airfield falling into U.S. Military as follows: On the site of B-29 hardstands for 497th and 498th Bomb Group adjacent to
northeast of the terminal area of Saipan International Airport, the ruins of
the air military facilities of Japanese Navy are confirmed by Jerry Facey
living in Saipan (buildings colored yellow in the map above): Some work underway to clean up hardstands and taxiways in 497 and 498th areas; restoration and minor relocation of 73rd Wing memorial will be accomplished this year. It is only a matter of time that the air military facility of Japanese Navy will disappear from the earth.
K. Saipan International
Airport
Kobler Airfield used for
commercial airline which is indistinguishable on above photo, is written in dotted line on map in parallel with Saipan
International Airport to the west.
L.73rd Bomb Wing
Followings are the location of airbase, target and date of the first sortie of each Bomb
Wing:
Now this area is historical site mixed with air facilities of Japanese and U.S.
Military:
Glenn E. Mclure wrote as follows in his book "SAIPAN then and now" (1990 edition): M. This is a Happy Ending Story!!
On January 27, 1945, B-29 Bomber of 73rd Wing, based on Saipan, flew a high altitude mission against the Nakajima Aircraft Plant located at Musashino on the western fringe of Tokyo. It was known to all B-29ers as Target 357. Nine Superfortress were lost on that mission; one of them was V Square 27, known affectionately as “The Rover Boys Express”. I was the navigator abroad that aircraft. Our plane was critically damaged while we were attempting to complete our bomb run. A twin engine Ki45 Nick Japanese fighter plane came at us from directly ahead and hit us in the nose section with a 37mm cannon shell. Despite considerable damage, we managed to stay aloft on an east/southeasterly course, passing over cloud covered Metropolitan Tokyo and then east over Chiba Prefecture towards the coast/ocean. Subsequently crewmembers parachuted at intervals prior to the actual crash of our plane at Ikisu Village in Ibaragi Prefecture near Konoike Airfield. I bailed out at high altitude and did a long free fall. Temperature at high altitude was in the 50 degrees below zero range. I was wearing Khaki flying clothes, which accorded minimal protection. At about 2500feet I pulled my ripcord and my chute blossomed. Wow! I was approaching enemy soil. I was disoriented from the cold and shock. I was frightened and so alone. Suddenly I saw three Japanese fighter planes at my altitude headed directly for me. They moved in closer. I felt totally helpless and expected the worst. Later I learned those were fixed landing gear advanced trainers of the Army’s 39th regiment from nearby Yokoshiba Airfield. They had just completed a phosphorous bomb drop training exercise in that area. The third plane in the formation was flown my Corporal Hideichi Kaiho. The planes moved in closer; throttled back and circled me as I floated down. “Has they waved to me on that first pass?” Hardly, I thought. After another close in circle, two of the planes left. Only the third plane remained. “What were his intensions?” Again, I feared worst. Then a wonderful thing happened. The pilot of the third plane moved in closer and saluted me. I attempted a response with my arms above my head. I breathed a sigh of relief as this plane completed the circle and left the area. That was almost 56 years ago. I have never forgotten that day. I have always recalled and spoken of this incident in subsequent interviews, speeches, and books. I wanted people to know of this chivalrous act by an enemy pilot； A pilot who saluted me at that critical time in my life, on that cold winter day of January 27, 1945, over enemy soil. In recent years I have communicated frequently with certain Japanese historians via fax and later, email. Strangely, we had much in common with specific interests in B-29 activities over the Empire of Japan in 1944 and 1945 World WarⅡ period. As the months passed, we exchanged information and developed friendship via email. The topics and information exchanged concentrated on B-29 activity view through both their eyes and mine. They had accumulated massive data regarding B-29 activities. In several books and interviews over the years, I made reference to the “saluting incident”. One day in the Spring of 2000, Koji Takaki, a retired president of a major textile manufacturing company, and an avid World WarⅡ aviation historian, decided to pursue this incident in depth. We had been communicating for some time. He said a friend of his, Hideichi Kaiho, had mentioned over the years of a similar incident. The former combat pilot recalled circulating a B-29 crewman and waving to that figure as he floated down in this parachute during the War. Now the book segments and other articles which referred to this “salute” became meaningful. After months and months of active pursuit of this incident, including personal interviews to develop and confirm related facts, things started to mesh together. After continuing communications and fact-gathering confirmed this to my satisfaction, and after much thought, I ultimately expressed a desire to return to Japan to meet and thank the former enemy pilot who exhibited uncommon chivalry toward a B-29 crewman almost 56 years earlier. Additional details were forthcoming regarding Hideichi Kaiho. A few weeks after saluting me, Hideichi Kaito was nearly killed in combat with U.S. Navy Carrier based Hellcat Fighters near the east coast of Japan. He was still flying the advanced trainer, which was only armed with one 7.7mm machine gun. He was chased by four Hellcat that inflicted heavy damage to his plane. He crash-landed on the grounds of a shrine; coincidentally named the Kaiho shrine. A woman and her daughter who lived in the immediate area subsequently aided him. Kaiho-san eventually married the daughter, and smilingly commented, “I found a great wife thanks to the Grummans and God”. He became a flight instructor after the war and later a noted professional aviation artist. October 23, 2000, was a very important date for me. I closed another open circle in my life. On that day I was escorted to Funabashi, Chiba Prefecture, southeast of Tokyo. There at the home of his son, I met Hideichi Kaiho. This reunion was arranged by my friend, Koji Takaki. Hideichi is now confined to bed however, we embraced- two warriors of long ago. I thanked him for his noble act of January 27, 1945. He is now 75 years of age; I am 78. Both of us recognized how fortunate we were to have survived those long ago days of World WarⅡ. We held hands. As I was leaving, I looked back. He was smiling; so was I. That was a memorable occasion. My memories of January 27, 1945, and October 23, 2000, now blend together in a very positive way. A closing of an open circle in both of our lives. As I left joyous reunion, I also felt sadness as I thought about my fellow crew members, other B-29ers, and others who did not survive those days of war. N. Hap’s Trip to Japan Hap gave me accounts regarding his trips to Japan on March 2002. I reorganized them as follows:
That was the most terrifying time of my life --- locked in my cage at Kempei Tai Headquarters in downtown Tokyo - The firestorm winds - and smoke and fire and screams - a segment of our stable burned --- never thought I would live thru that night - you just hope and pray. Thanks to all B29ers on that low level fire raid that night and subsequent raids. Each one moved us a day closer to that great day of Liberation - August 29, 1945. About three or four years ago they built new tiger cages - very modern and quite different from the former cages up on higher ground on sort of a hillside where I was in 1945. I have visited the Zoo six times including March 2002. My understanding is that all the Zoo animals were killed as safety precaution during or shortly thereafter the fire raid. I did see a memorial dedicated to the animals on last two trips to Ueno. I always stop by the old gate where I entered with guards in March 1945. They were decent guards. The time in cage was difficult - but so is War.
Visited folks and places in Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Kobe, Akashi, Hiroshima, Nagasaki plus three crash sites at
Did take an afternoon in mid March to be driven out to Musashino and the former site
of Target 357 (Nakajima plant). Musashino is impressive progressive city now. Had reception with Mayor
Tsuchiya Masatada and visited former target site now occupied with impressive
office and high rise facilities; including a large park where former Nakajima
plant occupied a large segment. Children were playing and seniors who were
probably there in days of the war were resting in this present day idyllic
setting. I did look up and recall our final mission over 357 on 1/27/45. Time heals most all things. We visited outside of the temple after that ceremony and waved and smiled to each
other similar to sessions in Nagasaki and Hiroshima and Kobe and Akashi and Yokahama and Tokyo and the city of Musashino on
west edge of Tokyo - former location of Target 357 - where mayor
received and welcomed us. He was too young to have been there in days of War but he was well aware or briefed to know that
city hall and his office was
built directly over the former main section of the former Nakajima Aircraft Plant - target 357. That was a nice visit - positive and friendly and one
of understanding. As we were guided through the beautiful modern city of Musashino with many modern high rise office and living quarters an appropriate thought was perhaps time heals everything -
almost. At least I preferred that positive outlook vs. recalling that our plane V square 27 was shot down over Target 357 57 years ago. Immediately after the bomb the two trees appear critically damaged. It appeared they could never live. However--- The two trees Never Gave Up They Hung in There They Survived When we have problems or are tested in life we can learn much from those two Trees - We should never quit trying; we should never give up. ------ not necessary for you to revise - only a thought. Naturally visited Saipan and toured all places that were on the 1944-45 scene/schedule. Some work underway to clean up hardstands and taxiways in 497 and 498th areas; restoration and minor relocation of 73rd Wing memorial will be accomplished this year. 499th and 500th areas still stand proud, but see signs of continued invasion by agricultural home steaders including on the large South Maintenance area on runway B side of Isley. The old beaches at Obyan and Ladder (adjacent 500th) plus remnants of 500th Officers Club and Gazebo are still holding their own. Saipan is a magic Island. There are massive Marine maneuvers taking place at North Field presently. Broadway is basically blocked with heavy Marine security forces just north of Shrine site at present. A, B and C runways at North Field are active and restricted during this period. The massive restoration and extension of West Field (58th) is proceeding rapidly; 12,500 feet length indicated. (Translator’s remark) On the Camphor trees: Gazing at the original photo taken in Nagasaki 11 or 12 August 1945, I find out destroyed Urakami Roman Catholic Church in the opening between two Camphor trees and locate the trees growing in the precincts of Sanno-shrine about 3,000feet south of the Church. This shrine is famous for “One-leg Torii (the gate to shrine)” standing on the approach to the shrine. The left half of the Torii was blown away by the blast from the explosion of the atomic bomb. I asked my friend living in Nagasaki to see between the trees to the same direction with the original photo. She answered that she couldn’t look out over the church which is hidden by newly built buildings in the north. From: HRoverboy Ben: Re your recall of the March 10th, 1945 Fire raid on Tokyo . Doesn't seem possible that was 63 years ago. Sometimes it seems like only yesterday as memories flash back. I was held Prisoner in cage 1 at Kempei Tai torture Headquarters in Central Tokyo after our B 29 was shot down over Tokyo (Target 357) on 1/27/45. Just after the midnight guard change on March 10th the air raid sirens sounded and shortly thereafter I heard the sound of multi engine planes overhead. The obvious low altitude of the planes confused me. Then the sound of explosive bombs and subsequent fire bombings confirmed that these were our guys (B 29ers) on a low altitude fire mission on Tokyo. The guards tied me up in my solitary cage; locked the cage door and left. The hours following were frightening; explosions and screams and smoke and firestorm and red sky dominated; roof of wooden stable where I was confined was on fire and door burned off. l never thought I would live thru that night. One prays constantly in such a situation. A decent interpreter came to front of my cage just before noon following that fire raid. Among other things he advised me that B 29 prisoners would be executed that day. (I do not know answer to your likely question) Days following the raid were difficult. Negative anticipation was intense. I subsequently was moved from my cage and taken to Ueno Zoo and placed on display in former Tiger Cage; later moved to Omori prison facility contiguous to SW segment of Tokyo. There 32 fellow B-29ers lived together in one barracks; our assigned "space of our own" was 2 x 5 feet Was wonderful to be with 29ers and be able to talk and to see the sky and sun and stars; to see B 29s and P 51s dominating the sky over enemy territory. We were starving, but we 29ers at Omori lived amicably together and helped each other through difficult days under extremely trying conditions. Then on August 28th B 29s came in low over Omori and dropped food and other critical items to us. What a day. Thanks to B 29ers who flew those POW supply missions. You did not forget us. You came back for us. Thank you. We 29ers at Omori were always isolated from 500 plus other POWs who had been captured in the Philippines and other Pacific battle grounds. When the supplies were dropped that day we could mix with the other prisoners. They embraced us. I was Proud to be a 29er that day and all days before and since. I have revisited Tokyo and all other major cities in Japan ten times since 1984. My last visit was in October last year. All of the "BAD PLACES" that I was familiar with in 1945 no longer exist. Have also returned to Saipan and Tinian six times. I have found that such return visits contribute in a positive manner as I traverse the elderly stages of my Life. Excuse the length of this message which started out and was intended to be limited to reference to the March 10, 1945 fire raid on Tokyo. Enjoy Life O. Flying to Tinian
The seats are three and two behind pilot, and I place myself in the middle of three seats carrying a digital camera in my arms. Cessna go out to runway through guide way. The guide way was runway of Aslito airfield which was constructed by Japanese Navy, and as soon as U.S. military captured the airfield they constructed new runway for B-29 to the right hand neighbor. The aircraft take off toward northeast, climb over the ocean across cliff, maintain level flight at 500ft and turn the heading 180 degrees right and fly parallel to the runway. On this side of Obyan Point, there are narrow Ladder Beach and Obyan Beach which is popular among scuba divers. The members of 500th Bomb Group who stationed at Obyan, enjoyed swimming on the beaches. At that time, there were hardstands of B-29 and lodgings on this quarter, but all of them are covered with jungle now. I overlook a whole view of the golf course of Coral Ocean Point Resort below. I can not find my friends who are enjoying golf somewhere in the course. The aircraft make turn toward south on the sky of Agingan Pt and fly to Ushi Pt., the northern end of Tinian, go across Saipan Channel. At this time I fall into raptures to see the ruin of Tinian North Field where I am going to visit after arriving Tinian. We are approaching to the great four runways which could be seen only in the monochromatic photographs taken in the Pacific War. I keep on taking photos forgetting myself. The apron of 509th Composite Wing where locates two atomic bomb pits comes in my sight. When I visited North Field a year ago, I was guided to the preserved pits. Then I become aware of the existence of vehicles, helicopters and personnel on the B runway where we find nothing at all normally. I feel North Field today is exceptionally active. At that time I felt any uneasiness, but when I drive to Hinode Shrine driving a car through Broadway and blocked by Marine soldiers later, I understand that U.S. Marine is performing exercise named "MILLENNIUM EDGE 2002". Next day, I send Email to Mailing List"B-29 Superfortress" with the
aerial photograph of North Field： I visited Tinian, flying over the North Field yesterday. Broadway toward North Field was closed and a soldier of U.S. Marine Corps asked me to return. I changed my way to 8th avenue parallel to Broadway, but my attempt was dissuaded as well. Although a soldier told me “Have a nice day!”, it was worst day for me. Check the attached picture in detail, you will find group of soldiers and vehicles under exercise on western part of runway B. Take Care Ya A former B-29 crew answered as follows： Arriving Tinian Airport I take a car to San Jose village. On the way I call on Mrs Carmen, the publisher of Don Farrel “TINIAN”, at a grade school and presenting the Japanese translation of the book, I ask her to permit for uploading it on my web. She gives a ready consent to my proposal.I get to the rent a car office in Tinian Dynasty Hotel & Casino from Meitetsu Fleming Hotel in the village and finally I can get my car. On my return trip, the aircraft is crowded with passengers. I take my seat just behind the pilot. The flight course is almost inversed as of the way to Tinian. The aircraft flies toward north over Broadway where I go and from several times driving car. I can look down Old Japanese Communication Center (now: Slaughter House) along the Broadway and watch North Field in detail again. To my regret I have to take photograph waiting recovery of storage battery because of the unforeseen rapid consumption of the battery equipped in my camera. Arriving at Saipan Airport safely, I was overtaken by sudden violent shower as soon as I get on the car. It was fortune that I haven't met the shower during flight. I came together with my friends and enjoyed the last night of Saipan in Garapan. |
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On
In order to climb Mt. Tapotchau, we need four wheels drive car, because on
the way to the top of the mountain paved road is cut off and we have to drive
on bare slope. The air is cool compared with earth and the price of land is
cheap. Therefore it is best fitted for residential quarter except that they
have to depend on rain water.
We visited Memorial Park in the north of Garapan walking under a burning sun
from hotel with a can beer in hand. The U.S. Military Memorial Park adjacent to
Tanapaq Lagoon is vast, magnificent and a scenery spot.
After visiting Memorial Park, I tried to visit Katori Shrine which might be
enshrined in the east of Garapan. I went to the shrine on foot separated from
friends but I couldn't find it anywhere. Coming back to the hotel I confirmed
the place of the shrine at tour guide service, then picked up a taxi. Young
native taxi driver guided me to the shrine with a light heart. I understand that
if I walk further I could find the shrine. I ordered him to wait here until come
back from the shrine. He asked to me whether he should stop the taxi meter or
not. Seeing eight dollars display I get down the car ordering stop it
immediately. There is the inner part of Sugar King Park and newly built Saipan
Katori Shrine is enshrined among green woods and has hills at the back.
In Sugar King Park, the bronze statue of Sugar King Shunji Matsue(1876-1954)
who succeeded the mass-production of sugar in Saipan and Tinian is remains
completely without damaged by fierce bombardment from U.S. warships and
aircrafts on invasion of Saipan (see the photo).
On
December 1998, I enjoyed four days tour to Saipan for the second time. The
expenses of the special tour were $270(approx.\32,000) for hotel charges and two
rounds golf play, \51,000 for round trip air fare (Continental Micronesia
Airlines). Total \83.000 was not so expensive.
Under
the northern cliff of Mt. Marpi, there is a cave where Japanese Last Command
Post was located. Originally, this cave was used for sea observation post by
Navy and on the western side of the cave, there is a big gaping hole by a direct
shot of U.S. naval bombardment. On the open space way to the cave, wreckages of
machine-gun and tank used by Japanese Military are collected and placed on view.
Watching those abandoned weapons I feel fresh memory of the war at that time.
At the northern end of Saipan, Mt. Marpi(820ft) rises up as precipitous cliff
and is called as suicide cliff. Under the cliff, Banaderu plain is spread out
to the Banzai cliff which falls down to deep-blue sea ninety yards below (photo
right). We can
observe the double-structure cliff of coral reef at the southern edge of Tinian
also. During the Pacific War, the same tragedy happened to be performed by
Japanese at the both place.
We
climb up to the top of the Mt. Marpi through paved road go around the mountain
from north to east. On the way, we encounter groups of sheep across the road. We
overlook Banaderu plain and Banzai cliff where we are there a little while ago.
At our feet we find sheer cliff and looking down over the cliff, I felt my back
go cold. After the war, the cliff called Suicide Cliff for many Japanese
soldiers and civilians such as student of a Girls High School throw themselves
under the cliff.
Aslito Airfield was constructed by Japanese Navy on Southern part of Saipan. Falling into U.S. Military,
the airfield changed the name to Isely Airfield and used for B-29 airbase of
73th Bomb Wing. 
Saipan International Airport
was called “Isely Field” after Navy Commander Robert H. Isely during Pacific
War and it was one of the most important airfield in the Pacific Theater. 
73rd Bomb Wing consisting 497th, 498th , 499th and 500th Bomb Group was organized at
Salina, Kansas on November 1943, arrived at Isely Airfield across Pacific Ocean
on August 1944 taking the initiative in the other Bomb Wings and sallied forth
on 28 October for the first time.
I reproduced passages from the following work:
Raymond F. Halloran ”Combat Warriors-World WarⅡ-Enemies then Friends” (December 2000) 
Six of us up front
exited thru front bomb bay at high altitude over Tokyo (nose wheel blocked our normal exit) while the bombs were still in the bomb
bay.
On
March 2002, I made a round trip between Saipan and Tinian. I went on board
Cessna aircraft at the apron behind the commuter terminal. This one-story
building was constructed for Japanese Navy Command Post and after U.S. Military
captured the island it used for commanding headquarter of 73rd BW.